Laminate Flooring
Laminate flooring is made out of synthetic material mixed with various natural elements to mimic the woodgrain texture. It is a durable man-made product, easy to clean and easy to install..
Laminate flooring is ideally the best alternative to a real wooden floor, a widely accepted flooring option in Europe due to its advantages over most types of floorings since it is durable, easy to install and easy to clean. Due to its man- made properties, it is a cheaper alternative while delivering a modern and authentic wooden texture
Laminate Flooring Formation Process
Laminate flooring is made out of four layers: Resin top layer which makes the floor tough, the joint to connect the flooring to one another, the printed décor (texture) and the HDF core. All these layers are fused together using pressure and heat.
There are two methods which can be used to do the moulding process, Direct Pressure Laminate (DPL) and High Pressure Laminate (HPL).
DPL method uses pressure and heat which is inserted on all four layers at once, creating a strong bond. It is a traditional cost effective method. HPL method require the layers to be handled separately which are bonded to the core by applying heat and pressure. This method is quite modern and is used to create premium flooring.
Why Laminate Flooring?
1. Effective overlay of protection against wear and tear
2. Melamine impregnated decorative film
3. CoreGuard® - Super Water Resistant high density hardwood fiber board (HDF).
4. Balancing film for dimensional stability
5. State-of-the-art interlocking system
6. Waxguard+ - For a quicker installation process and for avoiding creaking noises
7. SilenPro - Optional layer to absorb sound, hence reducing the echo effect.
8. Easy to clean surface
9. Superior stain resistance
10. Superior fade resistance
11. Install in/on all grade levels, even below grade
12. Install over many different types of subfloors
13. Great impact and indentation resistance
14. Exceptional realism at affordable costs
15. Easy to replace later on, if desired
Uniclic is a method used to install laminate floors without the use of glue. It’s a simple method of clicking to boards to fit together using the tongue and groove of the boards. It is unique due to its ability to install a plank in two different ways on both ends of it.
Method A:
Angle the board at 20 to 30 degrees to the panel that is already installed. While gently moving the panel upward and downward, pushing the panel forward will click both panels into place. Either end can be used to fit into the alternative end.
Method B:
Unlike the previous method, the panels can be set side by side each other. It does not require lifting and swinging. Using a special tapping block, the panels can be tapped to fit the other.
Tools for installing the floor
For best results with a complete neat look, it is important that we follow the installation process precisely. Besides the regular tools (hammer, saw, pencil, measure), we require the Installation kit (crowbar, spacers [1-8mm] and adapted tapping block), Underlayment system and maintenance products
To obtain a clean cut, the pattern side should face down when we use a jigsaw, sabre saw or circular handsaw and up when using a handsaw or a crosscut saw.
Focus points
1. Thanks to the Uniclic system, we can complete the installation without any usage of glue. The floor can be used during and immediately after installation.
2. Where we begin installation is decided on which is the easiest way to install the floor.
3. The panels are mixed sufficiently during the installation process to make sure that identical panels are not fitted next to each other or else it will negatively affect the overall pattern
4. All panels are checked in daylight before and during installation to spot any defective panels.
5. It is preferable to install the floor parallel to how light enters the area. The ideal conditions are 12-20C(59-68F) at a relative humidity of 50-60%.
6. It is advisable to let the planks adjust to the room conditions in unopened packing at room temperature 48 hours before installation in the middle of the room where it is to be installed.
7. Since room humidity can vary with seasons and changes in weather, we always take into consideration that the floor is able to expand and contract. For this reason, an expansion space of 8-10mm is left on all sides and against any thresholds and under doors. Larger rooms must have an expansion space every 40 feet width wise as well as length wise. An expansion joint is also made between rooms (under the floor).
8. Parallel rows are never installed side by side in line. The joints are always staggered by at least 6 inches to create an ununiformed pattern that brings out the elegance of laminate flooring.
Preparing the doors
- Check that door can still open and close after the floor and underlayment have been installed. (minimum +1cm).
- Check whether the old molding can be removed.
- We make sure that the subfloor is flat. Underlayment is used to smooth out any unevenness. This is very important to bring out an even smooth surface of the final product.
- Making sure the subfloor is clean and dry.
Concrete Subfloor
New Construction:
- If installation is to be carried out on a new concrete floor, it must be allowed to dry got at least 1 week per 1-4cm thickness. If thickness is over 4cm, it will require twice the drying time. The moisture must be less than 2.5% (CM method) or less than 5 lbs./24h. 1000sqft (Calcium chloride method ASTM 1869).
- If there is under floor heating, the subfloor must not exceed 28.8C(84F) and the moisture content must be less than 1.5% (CM method).
Renovation:
- Remove any dump-porous floor covering (carpet, needle felt, etc.) first.
- Damp-sealed floor covering (PVC, linoleum, VCT, etc.) first.
Wooden subfloor
- Existing floor coverings are removed. If unstable, the plank floor is leveled. The panels are installed crosswise against the direction of the existing subfloor. It is ensured that the crawl space under the plank floor is adequately ventilated. The moisture content of the wood may not exceed 12%. As a moisture barrier use a PE-foil (0.2mm)
Installing the floor
- As per the images below, the underlayment is installed first (image 3A). To install the first row, the tongue on sides are cut off using a saw (image 3B). The sawn off end of the plan is placed against the wall with spaces between the wall and the plank allowing expansion (image 3C)
In areas where it is difficult to install using the trapping block, we tap them together using a crowbar and hammer (images 5A, 5B, 5C)
Under door frames
When sawing the panels, we ensure that the expansion joint under the door is at least 10mm. If unable to lift the panel, we use an adapted tapping block or crowbar and hammer to tap the panels together with the planks are flat on the floor. (image 7A, 7B)
Finishing
- Remove all spacers.
- Install the molding on the plastic membrane that runs up the wall form under the floor. Never attach the molding to the floor. This method allows the floor to expand and contract under the molding.
- For a perfect finish around pipes, uses rosettes or caulking.
- In places where profiles or skirting cannot be placed, fill expansion gaps with caulking, See Diagram 8A
